Types of Looms

A back strap loom with a shed-rod.

A simple loom which has its roots in ancient civilizations comprising two sticks or bars between which the warps are stretched. One bar is attached to a fixed object and the other to the weaver usually by means of a strap around the back. On traditional looms, the two main sheds are operated by means of a shed roll over which one set of warps pass, and continuous string heddles which encase each of the warps in the other set. The weaver leans back and uses her body weight to tension the loom. To open the shed controlled by the string heddles, the weaver relaxes tension on the warps and raises the heddles. The other shed is usually opened by simply drawing the shed roll toward the weaver. Both simple and complex textiles can be woven on this loom. Width is limited to how far the weaver can reach from side to side to pass the shuttle. Warp faced textiles, often decorated with intricate pick-up patterns woven in complementary and supplementary warp techniques are woven by indigenous peoples today around the world. They produce such things as belts, ponchos bags, hatbands and carrying cloths. Supplementary weft patterning and brocading is practiced in many regions. Balanced weaves are also possible on the back strap loom. Today, commercially produced backstrap loom kits often include a rigid heddle.

Warp weighted loom

 

The warp-weighted loom is a vertical loom that may have originated in the Neolithic period. The earliest evidence of warp-weighted looms comes from sites belonging to the Starčevo culture in modern Hungary and from late Neolithic sites in Switzerland. This loom was used in Ancient Greece, and spread north and west throughout Europe thereafter. Its defining characteristic is hanging weights (loom weights) which keep bundles of the warp threads taut. Frequently, extra warp thread is wound around the weights. When a weaver has reached the bottom of the available warp, the completed section can be rolled around the top beam, and additional lengths of warp threads can be unwound from the weights to continue. This frees the weaver from vertical size constraints.

 

 

Drawloom

A drawloom is a hand-loom for weaving figured cloth. In a drawloom, a "figure harness" is used to control each warp thread separately. A drawloom requires two operators, the weaver and an assistant called a "drawboy" to manage the figure harness.

Handloom

Elements of a foot-treadle floor loom

Wood frame 

1. Seat for weaver
2. Warp beam- let off
3. Warp threads
4. Back beam or platen
5. Rods – used to make a shed
6. Heddle frame - heald frame - harness
7. Heddle- heald - the eye
8. Shuttle with weft yarn
9. Shed
10. Completed fabric
11. Breast beam
12. Batten with reed comb
13. Batten adjustment
14. Lathe
15. Treadles
16. Cloth roll- takeup

In a wooden vertical-shaft looms the heddles were fixed in place in the shaft. The warp threads pass alternately through a heddle and through a space between the heddles (the shed), so that raising the shaft raises half the threads (those passing through the heddles), and lowering the shaft lowers the same threads—the threads passing through the spaces between the heddles remain in place.

Flying Shuttle

 

Flying shuttle showing metal capped ends, wheels, and a pirnof weft thread

Hand weavers could only weave a cloth as wide as their an arms length. If cloth needed to be wider, two people would do the task often this would be an adult with a child. John Kay (1704–1764) patented the Flying Shuttle in 1733. The weaver held a picking stick that was attached by cords to a device at both ends of the shed. With a flick of the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle was propelled through the shed to the other end of side with considerable force, speed and efficiency. A flick in the opposite direction and the shuttle was propelled back. A single weaver had control of this motion but the flying shuttle could weave much wider fabric than an arms length at much greater speeds than had been achieved with the hand thrown shuttle. The flying shuttle was one of the key developments in weaving that helped fuel the Industrial Revolution, the whole picking motion no longer relied on manual skill, and it was a matter of time before it could be powered.

Haute-lisse and basse-lisse looms

Looms used for weaving traditional tapestry are classified as haute-lisse looms, where the warp is suspended vertically between two rolls, and the basse-lisse looms, where the warp extends horizontally between the rolls.

Power looms

Edmund Cartwright built and patented a power loom in 1785, and it was this that was adopted by the nascent cotton industry in England. A silk loom was made by Jacques Vaucanson in 1745, which used the same ideas but it wasn't developed further. The invention of the flying shuttle by John Kay had been critical to the development of a commercially successful power loom.Cartwright's loom was impractical but the ideas were developed by numerous inventors in the Manchester area in England, where by 1818 there were 32 factories containing 5732 looms.

Horrocks loom was viable but it was the Roberts Loom in 1830 that marked the turning point. Before this time hand looms had outnumbered power looms. Incremental changes to the three motions continued to be made. The problems of sizing, stop-motions, consistent take-up and a temple to maintain the width remained. In 1841, Kenworthy and Bullough produced the Lancashire Loom which was self-acting or semi-automatic. This enables a 15-year-old spinner to run six looms at the same time. Incrementally, the Dickinson Loom, and then the Keighley born inventor Northrop working for the Draper Corporation in Hopedale produced the fully automatic Northrop Loom which recharged the shuttle when the pirn was empty. The Draper E and X model became the leading products from 1909 until they were challenged by the different characteristics of synthetic fibres such as rayon.

From 1942 the faster and more efficient shuttleless Sulzer looms and the rapier looms were introduced. Modern industrial looms can weave at 2000 weft insertions per minute. Today, advances in technology have produced a variety of looms designed to maximize production for specific types of material. The most common of these are air-jet looms and water-jet looms

Kerala Handloom Industry

 

Kerala, the greenish land lies between the western ghat and Arabian sea, about 15000 square miles with varying scenic beauty. Kerala is known as the epitome of India. Historically kerala has long been a land of racial admixture and co-existence.
The mile stone in Kerala's history is that by first Christian church ,first Muslim masque and first synagogue were established in Kerala. A number of historically important Hindu temples can be seen in Kerala.
Tolerance and cosmopolitan out look are the characteristics of a "Keralite". This may be attributed to the religious and trade contact which existed for centuries with outside India. Handcrafted handloom weaving, Ivory works, weaving of coir are well known heritage of kerala.
Kerala handloom industry carries a vital role in states economy as well as in the field of employment.

A very large number of looms are located in rural areas. The rhythm of handloom can be heared in almost every village in kerala. There are men and women weavers for whom weaving is a way of life. In early days majority of handloom weavers followed the hereditary line. The main communities engaged in weaving are saliyas and devangas. With the available information it is clear that the saliyas and devangas migrated from the near by princely states.

Earlier they were producing cloth for their own consumption and for the need of their village. Increase in production and improvement in transport facilities removed the hindrance of time and eased the exchange of commodities. The skill of weaving has been passed from parents to children.
During 15th century British, French and Portuguese people visited kerala. They were attracted by the things like spices, ivory and beauty of handloom fabrics. They began to purchase large quantities and exported to their countries.

Germany has established a mission called 'Basal mission' in 1829.This mission paved the way of changing from home production to factory system. Apart from this, French people started to give training in weaving. They imported versatile loom and introduced principle designs from the hooks.
After the British captured India they took up and nourished handloom industries for their purposes. At the end of the 18th century the monopoly came to an end. Since 19 th century with the advent of industrial revolution, the English people gave up all. They started mechanical production in their land. During this period of foreigners the weavers of Kerala learned all techniques and they paralleled the way for the production of furnishing fabrics according to new style of demand.
During the dawn of 20th century, the Sree Narayana movement influenced kerala society by and large prompting the caste based culture to change towards secular and modern industrious culture so that many people from traditional Thiyya/Ezhava community had taken up their employment in Handloom Industry to do away with the toddy tapping to respond with the advice of Sree Narayana Guru. These changes also has its own mark in making the present shape of Kerala Handloom Industry.
It has resulted in the production of various types of artistic handloom goods in kerala.

The 'kerala kasavu sarees' are praised by the women all over India for their fineness of count and natural colours, texture and gold borders Kerala is also known for its unbleached cotton handloom crepe popularly known as 'kora' cloth this has entered in the foreign market and occupied a proud place in the garment industry.

The secret of furnishing fabrics from malabar is the excellent structure and texture of the cloth, unique colour combination, wide width (98"-120") and craft man ship. When we look back to the history of kerala it can be seen that in 1498 Vascodi Gama, the Portuguese navigator visited Calicut in Malabar. So it is well known that 15 th century handloom cloth of excellent qualities were exported to Asian and European countries.

Balaramapuram, in Thiruvanathapuram district is the most historically important place for handloom fabrics. The weavers belong to Saliyas were migrated from Nagar coil and Thirunalveli in Thamil Nadu during the time of Balarama Varma before 250 years. Here they produced super fine 'Mundum Neriyathu; for the need of royal family. Still they are in existence and carry important part of the total production. The technique of producing the superfine fabric spreaded from them to the local weavers in Balaramapuram and the surrounding places. Initially they were producing 'Mundu' for men with 0.4cm of width of 'kara' (cross border) with black garn. Before 100 years the jeri from Surat takes to Balaramapuram and 'Kasavu Sarees' production was started.
Koothampalli in Thrissur district is also well known for handloom fabric. Here Devangas immigrated from Karnataka are engaged in weaving. The 'Kasavu Sarees' which are being produced here is mostly with halffine jeri.The middle class people would like to purchase this sarees because of its cheapness. The price of a saree can be reduced from Rs.5000 to 1000 by using half fine jeri instead of pure jeri.

Chendamangalam, in the Ernakulam district is also an important handloom centre in Kerala. Here they have been producing the double dhoti and 'Mundu' and 'Neriyathu'.The distinction of these fabrics is in its structure in the plain structure, they have producing a special effect in weft direction.

Area wise Analysis of Handloom in Kerala

Kerala has 14 districts from Thiruvanathapuram to Kasargod. The handloom industry is spreaded allover the state. But the handloom industry is concentrated in certain places. The southern kerala is famous for its superfine products, like sarees, dhothies and 'Set mundu' etc. The middle kerala also engaged with such products .But while going to northern side called malabar the main production changed to coarser varieties like furnishing items bed spreads, towels etc. The common products in kerala are 'Thorthu' (Bathing towel) and Lungies. Almost 2 lakhs of weavers are earning their livelihood from the handloom 75% of them are in the co-operative line. Almost 5 lakhs families are depending upon handloom industry.
A district wise analysis gives us a clear cut idea about the places where handlooms are concentrated and the places which are important for traditional varieties.

1.Thiruvananthapuram
The capital city has its own historical importance. And in the map of handloom also it has an important place. There are 349 societies and 44700 weavers are working with their looms. The main products of district are fine cotton textures, durries with special design Balaramapuram is very famous for its fine grey sarees with kasavu (Jari). The other products here are set-mundu 'Mundum Nereyathum'-(Traditional dress for a malayalu lady), Mundhu (dhothi for men), Earezha thorthu (bathing towel), Melmundu etc. Other places where handloom concentrations are Parassala the south most of kerala where the weavers are involved in weaving of sarees dhotis Cherayinkeezhu, Kulathur are the other place where handloom density places. Here also the productions are as explained above. The range of counts is 60s-120s.The jari used here is superfine one.
2.Kollam
The very old city has a few handloom production places. Here almost 80 co-operative societies with 10271 registered weavers with their looms. In this district almost all varieties produced in Kerala are produced in a small scale. In olden days the Kollam (Quilon) was an important port in South India. So the effect of exporting items are effected the weavers in kollam district Lungies, furnishing items, earezhathorthu, sarees, dhothies are the main products. Terry towels, Jacquard durries are also produced.
Kollam, Karunagappally, Chathannur are the main places related to handloom in the district. The products from this place are mainly for domestic market. Therefore colours, fashions etc. of these products suit the domestic market.

3.Pathanamthitta
There are 7 co-op societies and 165 registered looms are here. With these 281 weavers are earning their livelihood. In this district the main products are lungies and dhothies.

4.Alappuzha(Alappey)
Alappuzha is very famous for its coir products. Coir weaving also done with the hands only. But it is considered as another wing.
The main products in this centres are mainly dhotis, sarees, lungies, earezhathorthu etc. There are 25 co-op societies with looms and 2309 weavers in this district.

5.Kottayam
In kottayam district the main products are earezhathorthu, panimundu and lungies. They are also producing bed sheets and sarees. There are 16 societies with loom and 1853 weavers are here. Kidangoor, Karingannoor are major centres.

6.Idukki
In this district there are 11 societies and 414 weavers with their looms. The main products are sarees, lungies etc.
7.Ernakulam
'Chennamangalam saree' is famous in kerala. This fine grey sarees are the product of Ernakulam district. The other main products are superfine double dhothies, synthetic and silk sarees, matching set etc. In Paravoor 120 s fine double dhothies are produced. Paravoor is situated in coastal Ernakulam only the above statal paravoor is situated.
In east Ernakulam ,earzha thorthu and cheaper variety bed sheets are produced. There are 30 societies and 8494 weavers with their looms.
8.Thrissur
The cultural capital of kerala has an important role in the tradition of kerala. Here a traditional variety named 'Koothampally saree' is produced. koothampally is a place situated in Thrissur. The other productions are set mundu, woven with half fine jari. Dhothies, lungies are also produced in this district .There are 30 societies in Thrissur and 6052 weavers.

9.Palghat
In this district its handloom weaving is very popular Chittur, Pudunagaram, Kollengode, Peruvemba,Karimpuzha are some of the handloom concentrated place situated in the district.
Here the main products are sarees, dhotis, lungies etc. Here silk sarees production also started recently.
There are 45 societies and 11236 weavers depending on the handloom weaves with their looms.

10.Malapuram
A number of Muslim weavers are here in this district. The main places are Tiroor, Tanoor etc. The main products are furnishing items which influenced from calicut and saree lungies. There are 13 societies and 2774 weavers.

11.Calicut or Kozhikode
The districts from Malapuram to Kazargod known as Malabar. The famous "Malabar loom" came from this place only. The other famous of this place is ,in olden days famous "Calico cloth" came from calicut only.
In olden days foreigners established some companies. Some of them remaining now also. 'Common Wealth Trust' which is situated in Calicut is one such company.
The main products are mainly meant for export. Furnishing ,Jacquard products, Bedsheets, Table mats, Coarser varieties etc. The products are mainly coming from Malabar loom.
The products from Kozhikode have an excellent value in domestic market also. The main centres are kozhikode, Quilandi, Vatakara, Chombal, Maniyur etc.
There are 41 societies (Most of them are industrial societies) are here.

12.Wynad
There is not that much important in this high range. There are only 4 societies in this district and 136 weavers. The products will be a part of Calicut and Cannanore.
13.Cannanore or Kannur
Cannanore is called as 'the Manchester of Kerala'. The famous Cannanore sports shirting, varieties like Crepe are the donation of this district. The weavers are mainly working in industrial societies.

For export of handloom products Kerala mainly depending upon the products from Cannanore. The main products are shirting, Made-ups, jackquard, Furnishing,Turkish towels, Sateen sheets Crepe such export oriented, and Lungies Earezha thorthu etc. for domestic purpose. The products are coarser varieties Cannanore Mundu is a popular variety.
The main centres are Cannanore, Azhicode, Chirakkal, Kanhirode, Panoor, Kuthuparambu, Kalyassery.
There are 73 societies established in this district and with about 50 exporters in private sector together have,13667 weavers working open that.

14.Kasargod
Kasargod is the north most district in Kerala. Here sarees are produced, and export varieties also produced here Kasargod, Mancheswaram are main centres.11 societies are here nad 3401 weavers working in these societies.
Kasargod sarees are very famous in Kerala. Now-a-days there is a very good demand for the silk sarees woven with different colour pattern and ornamated with zaris.